ALOE VERA
ALOE BARBANDENSIS
This plant grown commercially in southern US and New Mexico was historically used for the treatment of minor burns and skin irritations. As part of the formula’s base, it provides wonderful moisturization and a refreshing feel to the skin. Aloe also helps in the absorption of other key ingredients, while providing its own benefits. As a natural extract, Aloe contains:* Vitamins A, C, and E - all known for their antioxidant properties
*Enzymes (biochemical catalysts) - such as Bradykinase - which has been shown to help reduce inflammation when applied topically *Minerals (Calcium,Sodium, Potassium, Manganese, Copper, Zinc, Chromium and Selenium) *Lignin - an inert substance - but when part of topical products, it helps other ingredients in the formula to be absorbed more efficiently into the skin. WITCH HAZEL
HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA
Is derived from the shrub also known as the Spotted Alder. Most commonly found in Easter US and Canada. Historically has been used topically for the treatment of burns, bruises and scalds in general to reduce inflammation and has soothing properties on the skin.
GRAPE SEED OIL
VITIS VINIFERA
Is an oil extracted from pressing the seeds of various varieties of grapes, an abundant product of wine making. The location of the best grape seed oils then by no surprise are found in Italy, France, Spain and also Switzerland. My personal preference due to the consistent high yield and quality is that found in the Tuscany region in Italy. I also like drinking the wine. It’s all in the name of research. Grape seed oil contains very potent anti-oxidants which are helpful for diminishing the sun’s damaging effects and lessening free-radical damage – diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. As an ingredient for this type of product, it is also lightweight and does not give an oily feel to the skin.
GLYCERIN
GLYCERIN
Is an ingredient that helps to balance or maintain moisture levels. It is commonly derived from oils or created as a by-product of soap production. The glycerine used in this product is vegetable based, that is derived from palm oils. Glycerin is actually part of the skin’s own natural lipid structure. As a moisturizing ingredient, it helps the skin to attract and retain its own natural moisture while leaving it feeling soft. This ingredient has a great capacity to attract moisture from the air therefore, rather than sitting on top of the skin, glycerine is absorbed readily thereby softening the skin while not leaving it feeling greasy.
VITAMIN E
TOCOPHERYL ACETATE
With proven antioxidant benefits, Vitamin E helps in the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles on a small scale, to stretch marks on a larger scale
ALGAE EXTRACT – BLADDERWRACK
FUCUS VESTICULOSUS
Algae is a sea weed found in many parts of the world – there are thousands of different species. Bladderwrack is a seaweed that is found off the northern coast of Brittany(a unique ecosystem as it is where the Atlantic and Pacific oceans meet), and is an effective antioxidant and has water binding properties for the skin. This naturally occurring renewable raw material has been used for centuries in European spas (as wraps, masks) to improve the texture and appearance of the skin. I just wish it had a more appealing name.
WILLOW BARK EXTRACT
SALIX NIGRA/ALBA
As the name indicates, it is the extract from the bark of the willow tree, found predominately in Eastern US and Canada. First used by Native Americans as an analgesic, when chewed, it provided pain relief. The company Bayer in the late 1800s took that concept to make ‘Acytl Salicylic acid’ i.e. Asprin. But I digress... willow bark extract for the purpose of this formula is the natural, and more gentle, form of Salicylic acid. Salicylic acid is used in many acne preparations as it lowers the pH of the environment creating to help prevent the proliferation of bacteria which commonly cause acne. Here, it is used at a level, and in a form that is gentle for the skin, but does help to lower the pH and may be why some people experience a mild exfoliation when using the product, like a mini facial. There is Salicylic Acid in this formula as well, but at a very low level as it is “boosted” by using the natural gentler extract.
BILBERRY FRUIT EXTRACT
VACCINIUM MYRTILLUS
Bilberry is a cousin to the more common Blueberry or huckleberry grown the US and Canada. Bilberries are not cultivated, but are grown and picked in the wild predominately in the Scandanavian peninsula, Finland and Denmark. Beyond its general use in making delicious desserts, it is known in the product development world as an ingredient that has extremely strong antioxidant properties and may have beneficial effects on the capillaries. In Japan, this ingredient is considered to be a key component that is beneficial in evening out skin tone, and is found predominately in Japanese whitening lines (culturally, the ability to help give Asian skin a more porcelain appearance is desired). Here in this formula it is used to also help even out skin tone and reduce redness.
WHITE TEA EXTRACT
CAMELLIA SINENSIS
White tea is the minimally processed buds and leaves of green tea – and has therefore a higher and more potent percentage of antioxidants. This extract also contains caffeine, which is known to be soothing to the skin and helps minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. White tea is native to mainland South and Southeast Asia, but is today cultivated across the world in tropical and subtropical regions.
ROSEMARY LEAF EXTRACT
ROSEMARINUS OFICINALIS
Rosemary is native to the Mediterranean, but is now grown all over the world. Traditionally used as a spice in foods, the oil of the leaf in this product has been used for its fantastic antioxidant properties.
VITAMIN A
RETINYL PALMITATE
There is a great amount of research indicating that Vitamin A is an excellent antioxidant and skin cell regulator. When on the skin, the retinyl is converted to retinol – a substance that entire products have been built around as the ultimate wrinkle reducer. It is in this formulation to also help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, but is just one of the components doing the work
APPLE FRUIT EXTRACT
PYRUS MALUS
The apple, native more temperate climates in Canada, USA and Western Europe has long been known for its antioxidant properties. Malic acid as part of this extract has been reported help reduce skin inflammation and help even out skin tone and texture.
YEAST EXTRACT
YEAST EXTRACT
Yeast is a good source of Betaglucan which is considered a very good antioxidant. It has also been found to support improved skin texture and tone and for that reason, it is often found in high-end eye cream products. I just figured that people would want the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles and the lessening the appearance of dark circles/ uneven pigmentation, not just for their eye area, but for the whole face. I’m pragmatic that way.
NETTLE EXTRACT
URTICA DIOICA
Derived from the Stinging nettle plant – native to western Europe, predominately Austria, Germany, Swizerland, has been used historically as a topical anti-inflammatory ingredient to help with skin irritations, but more importantly for this formula it is a fantastic ingredient that helps reduce puffiness.
ARGININE
ARGININE
Is an amino acid derived from certain fruits and nuts and that has great antioxidant properties. Amino acids are the building blocks to proteins, and protein is the building block to all living cells. It also helps with improving circulation, and subsequently cell renewal, and this in turn, helps to improve the appearance of the skin in general since the rate of cell renewal decreases as we age.
SALICYLIC ACID
SALICYLIC ACID
First used by Native Americans as an analgesic, when chewed, it provided pain relief. The company Bayer in the late 1800s took that concept to make ‘Acytl Salicylic acid’ i.e. Asprin. But I digress... willow bark extract for the purpose of this formula is the natural, and more gentle, form of Salicylic acid. Salicylic acid is used in many acne preparations as it lowers the pH of the environment creating to help prevent the proliferation of bacteria which commonly cause acne. Here, it is used at a level, and in a form that is gentle for the skin, but does help to lower the pH and may be why some people experience a mild exfoliation when using the product, like a mini facial. There is Salicylic Acid in this formula as well, but at a very low level as it is “boosted” by using the natural gentler extract.
KOLA NUT COLA NITIDA / ALBA
COLA NITIDA/ALBA
Is a nut/seed native to North Coast of Africa. A cousin to the coffee bean, this nut contains a much higher amount of natural Caffeine. Contrary to when you ingest caffeine when drinking coffee, caffeine in skin preparations actually soothes the skin and helps to minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles with out the bothersome aspect of keeping you up at night.
CO-ENZYME Q10
UBIQUINONE
The new “magic ingredient” in the late 1990’s has had entire product lines designed around it. An enzyme has 2 parts: a protein and another part that is either a vitamin or a mineral. When that second part is a vitamin, it is called a Co-enzyme. Co-enzyme Q10 has a similar structure to Vitamin K (which is the more recent “it” vitamin) but is much more stable. What is special about co-enzymes is that it can act as a catalyst in various chemical reactions – so it functions in a similar way to retinol, in that it is a small molecule that is easily absorbed into the skin and is a powerful antioxidant and helps in the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles when applied topically.
CUCUMBER FRUIT EXTRACT
CUCUMIS SATIVUS
Cucumber extract has been used for centuries to refresh and tone the skin after the removal of makeup. It has been shown to offer moisture-regulating and softening properties and imparts a crisp, fresh scent to the formulation.
ARNICA MONTANA FLOWER OIL
ARNICA MONTANA FLOWER OIL
This flower is indigenous to the mountainous regions of Central Europe. This ingredient has long been used in Europe for the treatment of skin abrasions. One of Arnic’s primary components: Helenalin – also has a strong anti-edemic (anti-swelling) effect, which is why it has been used historically to help reduce bruising and swelling. In this formula, it helps with the tone and elasticity of the skin.
PANTHENOL
PANTHENOL
Is the provitamin of B5. It is an emollient viscous liquid that is a humectant (has water binding capabilities for the skin) and helps with water retention which in turn helps the skin to attract and retain its own natural moisture.
CHLOROPHYLLIN – COPPER COMPLEX
CHLOROPHYLLIN
A form of natural chlorophyll that is rich in anti-oxidants and has anit-inflammatory characteristics which are good for the skin. It also imparts a green colour to the formula which was intentional. Green blocks red – and so it helps even out visually any uneven skin colour/blotchiness – and is done so using a natural ingredient instead of the typically used dyes.
MINERAL SALTS
MAGNESIUM, ZINC AND MANGANESE SALTS
Magnesium, Zinc and Manganese salts are minerals that individually have great skin benefits, but in combination with sodium play a major role in boosting enzyme reactions essential in cell renewal to reduce redness and improve the tone and texture of skin. This is the type of thinking behind using of the ‘dead sea’ salts in some formulations.
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